"INFORMATION ON COCCIDIOSIS AND CARING FOR BABY CHICKS"
Caring for Baby Chicks:
Litter:
Use pine wood chips to cover the area to a depth of 2-3 inches. Never use cedar wood chips.
They are toxic to the baby chicks.
Heat:
For the first week to 10 days carry temperature at 95/F degrees. Reduce this temperature 5 to 7
degrees per week for the first 3 weeks.
The chicks will tell you if they are NOT comfortable... crowding under the heat if chilling and getting
away from the heat if too warm.
The bulb should be 12-18 inches from the litter. Use one 100 watt light bulb for the first week, use
one 75 watt bulb for the second week, and use one 60 watt bulb for the third week.
For the outside or in the garage in hot or really warm weather you can start with a 75 watt bulb, then
a 60 watt bulb, and then a 40 watt bulb for the last week. After that a smaller watt bulb will do fine
for just a little light for the chicks.
KEEP IN MIND... the area where the heat rays "hit" the litter, must be sufficient for the chicks
to get "under the heat" to keep warm.
Drinking Water For 2 Day Old Chicks:
For the first day add 2 teaspoons of sugar per quart of drinking water.
Then after that only give them clean fresh water daily.
What To Feed Baby Chicks:
You need to start your chicks on a 20% to 21% protein Chick Starter/Grower type of feed for up
to the first 10 weeks of age.
If your chicken feed contains a coccidiostat it will help prevent coccidiosis.
DO NOT cut your starter feeds by feeding ground corn or oats on the side. Taking short cuts
like that cost you money with slower chick growth and growing problems.
Draft Shield:
A shield of corrugated paper, baled straw or hay must surround the starting area of the chicks
when they first arrive. This is very important during cold, early spring starting periods. Do not
corral the chicks under the heat lamps or brooder. This can lead to dehydration which will bring on
mortality. Chicks MUST be able to get away from heat source if they so desire.
Floor Space:
Figure one-half square foot per bird for first two weeks. Increase to one square foot per bird after
that. Crowding your birds does not save money. It will normally "cost you" with higher mortality
and increased feed costs.
Light:
Heat lamps will provide light during the starting period. When no longer needed for heat, use a
25-40 watt bulb at night. A little light is all that is needed.
Picking Problems:
If a picking problem develops in your birds... check to make sure you have good ventilation in
the building. Birds 1-2-3 weeks old, for example, may commence picking around the tail stub,
wing bow or neck areas! If this occurs, dab pine tar or axle grease right on the picked areas. This
will generally stop the picking!
What To Feed Older Chicks:
After your chicks are at least 10 weeks of age, then you feed them Grower/Finisher 15% protein
food. When they are around 18 to 20 weeks old or have started laying, then they can eat Layer
Pellets 16% protein food.
Special Feeders Or Waterers To Use:
The feeder can be any type of dish or chick feeder. The water need only to be in a chick water
base with a quart jar. Do not put open water dishes or bowls in the brooder with the chicks.
They can not swim and will drown.
Before Putting The Chicks On The Ground:
Make sure the area is clean and has fresh bedding or straw. Make sure the food will not get wet
and make sure they will be able to get to fresh clean water daily.
Feed Stores:
The one we use is Tractor Supply Company in Fuquay-Varina. There are others in the area such
as Agri Supply in Raleigh, Ace Hardware in Apex, Southern States, Hudson’s Hardware in Raleigh,
and Twin Oaks Feed Store in Willow Springs.
Coccidiosis In Chickens:
There are different strands of coccidiosis which is related to runny bloody poop. The way to cure
it will be to contact a Vet or an Avian & Exotic Bird Care center. Call (919)844-9166 to make an
appointment. They will need to do a stool sample and test for which strand of coccidiosis it is so
they can prescribe the right cure. Usually it is a 3 to 5 day treatment depending on if the medication
is given in the water or orally.
If your chicken feed contains a coccidiostat it will help to prevent coccidiosis. Do not wait! This is
one of the most common diseases that chickens get and it can be fatal in most cases if treatment is
not started soon enough.
Some types of treatments that work very well are called Baycox and Amprolium. This will cure the
type that the chick has. You mix the recommended dosage in there drinking water each day for 3
to 5 days. It is best to only make 1 to 2 quarts of the mixture daily to make sure they will drink all
of it daily without having to discard the unused portion each time you need to remake it. It will keep
fresh in a closed container for up to 3 days. Most of your local feed and supply stores will have
the treatment in stock.
You can also use ¼ cup of Braggs Apple Cider vinegar mixed in 1 gallon of drinking water as a
treatment in more mild and earlier cases.
Young Adult Pullets:
At 9 to 10 weeks of age you can switch your egg-type, bantams, rare and unusual breed chicks to
a 15-18% protein grower/finisher ration.
At 18 to 20 weeks of age, commence feeding them a 16% Complete Layer ration. It can be crumble
or pellets. It is fine to give them all of the natural vegetables that they want to eat.
Vitamins and Electrolytes:
Give your chicks fresh water to drink daily and keep the water clean. Each week you can add 1
teaspoon of Vitamins and Electrolytes to the chicks fresh water to help with stress from the heat
and in general.
Feeder Space:
Provide 2.5 inches of feeder space and 1 inch of watering space per chick for the first 10-12 weeks.
You will need to expand that a little more as the bird gets older.
Floor Space:
Provide 1/2 square foot of floor space for the first 2 weeks. Expand that to one square foot until
housing time for layers. At time of housing, figure 1.75 to 2 square feet per bird for regular sized
chickens and 1 to 1.5 square feet per bird for the smaller bantams.
Roosting/Perching Space:
Each hen/layer will need about 1 ½ feet of roosting/perching space per bird for sleeping at night.
Make sure that the roosts are about 3 to 4 feet off of the ground.
The Chicken Coop:
The coop should only contain the roosts for perching, the hanging feeder, the hanging waterer,
and the nesting boxes for laying the eggs. The floor of the coop can be dirt or straw. Pine straw
works best because it will dry out faster and it lasts longer.
We are a NPIP approved business as of September 2008. We are also licensed as a certified Chick, Hatching Egg,
and Poultry Dealer.
